Obvious piece of women’s wardrobe, the white shirt back yet. Back on the route of a garment that has defied the traces of time.
Contrary to appearances, the white shirt has long been considered an undergarment. In the 19th century, she had to stay out of sight, under the jackets and coats of man. In reality, only the collar and cuffs were, although they were at the time of the detachable items that we chose according to the occasion, season or the fashion of the time.
Gradually, these collars are also becoming social markers in a Western society in full industrialization: of a side the white-collar reserved for office workers occupying the top hierarchical positions and the other collar Blues, in reference to the overalls of workers stationed in manual tasks.
Credit: Beau Brummel / Warner Bros. Pictures
Mode boyish forces, 20-30 years see women seize the men’s dress shirt based on Homosociety, dress symbol of their struggle for equality of the sexes. Hollywood stars as Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich or Katharina Hepburn will be so noted for their androgynous attire, not lacking to shake a conservative American society but also to inspire thousands of women who will imitate them point of the white shirt a play the women’s locker room as others.
Getty: Clarence Sinclair Bull / Getty
But it’s undeniably the actresses as Marilyn Monroe that will give the white shirt glamorous bail or Grace Kelly who will affirm its elegance with its model to headlines. Audrey Hepburn will operate as it its potential “young girl sage” in button almost to the top and the returning in a miniskirt trapeze.
Credit: Ernst Haas / Getty
This multiple reinterpretation of the white shirt, some fashion designers will make an art. Of Saint Laurent to Alexis Mabille through Agnès b. , all offer their ideal vision of this former working uniform, turning it in turn in evening clothes or essential day, but always from a perspective of female emancipation. Because in the end, no matter the cut, the fabric or the purity of his white, the perfect white shirt remains simply that you will be able to appropriate.