We have already mentioned two of the most prominent in male clothing in the form of Cesare Attolini and Kiton. Both with its origins in southern Italy, and more specifically, Naples. Today we highlight the third major player in the Italian top clothing namely Brioni. Unlike the previously mentioned competitors are Brioni Northern Italian and Rome’s pride since the mid-1940s.
Brioni’s history starts in 1945 when the master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his colleague Gaetano Savini opens its doors for the company’s studio in Via Barberini in Rome.
The name comes from Brioni archipelago of Brijuni in Croatia.
After the Second World War, the market took off in earnest in 1952 and Brioni held its first fashion show at the Pitti Palace in Florence, not far from today’s Pitti Uomo fair.
Quality and craftsmanship has since been considered to be of the highest quality but the northern Italian silhouette differed significantly from the Neapolitan. The shoulders were more defined, the canvas more structured and more structured silhouette. The northern Italian style is often seen as a cross between the British School and the very light of southern Europe.
From the 1950s to 1990 when Umberto Angeloni took over the helm Brioni was primarily known as a pure costume manufacturer of the highest quality. In the early 90s the company took a new direction. It launched its first women’s collection and the collections had a higher degree of fashion combined with the previously highly regarded craft. Brioni was bought in 2011 by what was then the PPR (kering) to an unknown sum of between 250 and 350 million.
Brioni has historically had a number of known carriers such as Clark Gable and Cary Grant who caught the eye of the brand during the 1950s, when they worked with the Cinecitta studios in Rome. Mafia boss John Gotti was nicknamed The Dapper Don largely due to his extensive wardrobe of Brionikostymer.
Filmdukens perhaps the most influential style icon; James Bond bar officially Brioni’s garments from 1995 to Tom Ford took over as supplier of the movie Quantum of Solace in 2008.
Spring collection has been photographed at the Villa Medici in the company’s hometown of Rome and the campaign face is Julien Nielsen.
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